North Peak North Couloir Ice Climbing

SCREENED EVENT: Please join the waitlist. Attendees will be selected based on skill proficiency and experience shown on MAA profile. Those registered will be notified.

DETAILS

• WHERE: Tioga Pass, east side of Yosemite National Park. 
  
• ROUTE: North Peak via North Peak Couloir (https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106637286/north-face-north-couloir-right-couloir).

• EVENT LEADER: Roger Coss, rcoss15@comcast.net, (209) 815-3981

• MINIMUM AND MAXIMUM GROUP SIZE: 2 and 4 respectively.

• CLIMBING SKILLS REQUIREMENTS: In order to be best prepared to climb safely and effectively, participants should be able to hike 5 miles at altitude with 30 pound pack, ascend to 13,000 feet and feel comfortable with multi-pitch climbing on ice. 

• PERSONAL GEAR: Members are encouraged to use your own equipment. If you're missing something, loaner gear may be available. Please let the event leader know if you need something. 

• FITNESS AND DIFFICULTY LEVEL: Moderate

• MEDICAL: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after you’ve been accepted on the team.

• GETTING THERE: Meet at 6 am at Saddlebag Lake trail-head parking area (The entrance to the trail-head parking area is on the right side of the dirt road across from the dam. See MAP for parking entrance location). 

• EMERGENCIES: 911, closest hospital is Mammoth Hospital in Mammoth Lakes, CA.

ITINERARY

• Day 1, Friday August 30th - at the parking lot for the Yosemite East entrance (6:00 pm-ish) to meet and coordinate gear. We’ll car camp there.
• Day 2, Saturday, August 31st - Drive to the Saddlebag Lake TH and begin the approach/climb. If meeting group at TH, please arrive at 4:00 am to depart. Climb the route and return to the cars before dark.
• Day 3, Sunday, Sept. 1 - Weather contingency day in case weather is bad on Saturday. Please keep this day open.
  

REQUIRED CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT AND GEAR

• Wicking, breathable base layer, top and bottom

• Insulating, weather-resistant mid layer, top and bottom

• Soft shell

• Wind and waterproof shell layer, top and bottom

• Insulating fill or down belay jacket, w/hood

• Socks

• Gloves (two pair in event one gets wet)

• Gaiters (optional)

• Sunglasses

• Warm hat and/or balaclava

• Sun hat or covering

• Backpack (no larger than 45L)

• High energy food, snacks and drinks

• Water bottles or container system

• Strong headlamp with fresh batteries

• Map and compass

• Sunscreen and lip balm

• Small personal first aid kit

• Optional items for consideration: altimeter, trekking poles, camera, small knife or multi-tool, bandana

• Mountaineering boots, consider bringing approach shoes

• Harness*

• Climbing helmet*

• Sharp steel 10-12 point crampons, fit to your boots*

• Ice tools x 2*

• 3 locking and 2 non-locking carabiners*

• Two tied or sewn runners, 24" to 48"*

• Cordellette or quad, 5mm - 7mm, 15' - 20'*

• Belay device*

• Ropes, protection, slings* (may be group gear)

*If you are without some of this important safety gear, it may be available for loan upon prior request, first-come, first serve.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION:

• In order to register you must be a Base, Peak, or Apex member.

• Event leaders are board-approved volunteers, not certified guides.

• This event is free of charge. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this event. 

• Non-commercial wilderness, camping and /or backcountry permits will be acquired within the posted group size limits for this area.

• Participant safety is our top priority. The itinerary described is the plan; however, circumstances beyond the leader's control may necessitate changes.

• The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.

• MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.

For more information or questions about this climbing event, please contact the listed event leaders, or connect@mountainascent.org, or (916) 692-0005.