Mount Shasta Women's Climb
SIG 2MTN 1What is this?

Jun 29
Jul 1

MT SHASTA HOTLUM BOLAM RIDGE WOMEN’S ONLY: We will be climbing one of the more remote, alpine routes on the northern side of Mt. Shasta. Loaner gear is available to paid members. Maximum: 8. Recommended: MTN 1 and SIG 2 or equivalent experience.

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  • HOW TO RESERVE A SPOT ON THE EXPEDITION TEAM: Please first read all the contents of this posting, then if you are interested in attending and believe you are qualified, please sign in as a full member and pay the expedition deposit, or the entire fee. See section titled below “How to Join the Expedition"
  • WHEN: June 29th - July 1 2018
  • WHERE:   Shasta Trinity National Forest and Wilderness area. North Gate Trailhead.
  • ROUTE: Hotlum Bolum Ridge, AI1-2. Starting elevation: ~7500 feet, Highest elevation: 14,162 feet, Miles: 10 round trip
  • ESTIMATED PER PERSON EXPEDITION COST:Travel costs to North Gate trailhead and individual summit permit costs. In 2016, the permit was $25 and valid for 3 days
  • EVENT LEADERS: Tasha Wyatt ( and Nicole Roemer ( )
  • CLIMBING SKILLS REQUIREMENTS: For the safety and enjoyment of the group, we recommend
    • SIG 1 and MTN 2
    • Comfortably walk on moderate snow slopes
    • Glissading and ice axe self arrest technique
    • Fitness to climb for 10-12 hours on summit day
    • Experience at altitude
    • Wilderness camping and sleeping at higher altitudes
  •           Overview all MAA Training Courses here.
  • PERSONAL GEAR: Members are encouraged to use your own equipment. If you're missing something, loaner gear may be available. Please let the event leader know if you need something. Only full members receive a significant continuous discount on everything at Bobcat's Outdoor Adventure Sports. Brands include ArcTeryx, Black Diamond, Petzl, Mountain Hardwear, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Outdoor Research, MSR, Beal, Garmin and more.
  • FITNESS AND DIFFICULTY LEVEL: Beginner level climbers with moderate fitness level
  • MEDICAL: If you have any medical conditions pertinent to your participation on this event, please inform the event leaders after you’ve been accepted on the team.
  • GETTING THERE: North on I-5 and to the town of Weed. Take the exit for Highway 97 to Klamath Falls. Follow the signs through town and drive 15 miles north on 97 to Military Pass Road (Road 43N19). Turn right and drive four and a half miles to the junction of Andesite Logging Road and stay right. From this point to the trailhead, the route is marked with roadside direction signs. It is approximately four more miles to the trailhead. Expect 8.5 miles of rough dirt road to the trailhead. Four-wheel drive is usually not necessary, though a mid to high clearance vehicle is recommended.
  • EMERGENCIES: Mercy Medical Center Mount Shasta – 914 Pine St, Mt Shasta, CA 96067 – 530.926.6111


This standard route from the north side provides climbers with more snow climbing experience. It is similar in difficulty to the more popular Avalanche Gulch, but without the crowds. Women attending the Cascades trip in Mid-july have priority registration.


We will select people for this trip by June 10th so we can arrange travel

Day 1: Friday June 29th - arrive at North Gate trailhead, ideally, before sundown. Sleeping at 7k feet helps us acclimatize for the next two days

Day 2: Saturday, June 30th - Pack and distribute group gear. Hike through red-fir forest on a well used trail to Marine camp (~10,000 feet) or below Marine camp to set up base camp. At around 9,000 feet, the forest dissipates to alpine terrain and the glaciers and the route will be visible.

Day 3: Sunday, July 1st - Summit attempt. We will awake by 2 and leave no later than 3am. First, we will leave base camp and ascend west of the Hotlum Glacier onto our first snow ramp, leading us to the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge.  Depending on the snow conditions, we will skirt a crevasse in this area. Following the ridge proper, or moving up through the snow to “the step” at 13,000 feet. We will then climb up through more moderate angle snow as we pass some rock towers known as the “rabbit ears” and “the shark tooth” to the summit. We will follow the same route down to base camp. The total trip will be 4000 + feet and 10-12 hours.


MAA Expeditions are technical events that require significant travel and last longer than 4 days. Only MAA full members are eligible to attend all expeditions, and for those expeditions occurring on public lands in the United States, free members may also join. To obtain a membership, you must also be a member of the MAA International Meetup group.

STEP 1: RESERVE A SPOT. If you are an MAA member, and after a conservative self-assessment you believe you will contribute to the safety and success of the expedition and would like to be considered, please sign in, then pay the deposit or the entire expedition fee. Once that is complete you have reserved a spot on the expedition.

STEP 2: APPROVAL TO ATTEND. MAA Expedition Leaders will need to be certain that all who have reserved spots on the expedition have the fitness, technical skills and people skills to participate. This will be determined in the process of preparing for the expedition on specific training and events, and in-person or over the phone/email interactions. The collective expedition team will do it’s best to ensure every member is prepared. If a team member is  not going to be ready for the rigors of the expedition the deposit will be returned.

STEP 3: CONFIRMATION. Once you’ve been confirmed, please complete the payment on the balance of the expedition fee and make travel arrangements. Your information needs to be entered into the expedition travel coordination spreadsheet. Follow all other steps to prepare. Welcome aboard!

You can check the status of your attendance on the event posting on MAA International Meetup website, and the available spots on the official posting on this website.

If you experience difficulties or have questions during the registration process, please send an email to


Only full members receive a significant continuous discount on everything at Bobcat's Outdoor Adventure Sports. Brands include ArcTeryx, Black Diamond, Petzl, Mountain Hardwear, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Outdoor Research, MSR, Beal, Garmin and more.



  • Wicking, breathable base layer, top and bottom
  • Insulating, weather-resistant mid layer, top and bottom
  • Wind and waterproof shell layer, top and bottom
  • Insulating fill or down belay jacket, w/hood
  • Socks
  • Gloves and/or mittens
  • Gaiters
  • Sunglasses
  • Warm hat and/or balaclava
  • Sun hat or covering



  • Tent or bivouac - may be group gear
  • Backpack - save space for group gear
  • Cookset - may be group gear
  • Stove and fuel - may be group gear
  • Sleeping bag with compression stuffsack
  • High energy food, snacks and drinks
  • Sleeping pad
  • Spoon, mug
  • Freeze-proof water bottles or container system
  • Strong headlamp with fresh batteries
  • Map and compass
  • Sunscreen
  • Small personal first aid kit
  • Optional items for consideration: altimeter, trekking poles, camera, small knife or multi-tool, bandana



  • Mountaineering boots or approach shoes
  • Climbing helmet*
  • Sharp steel crampons, fit to your boots* 
  • Ice axe / tools*


*If you are without some of this important safety gear, it may be available for loan upon prior request, first-come, first serve (full members only).

For help in selecting the appropriate item, please refer to the MAA Detailed Clothing, Equipment and Gear List


  • In order to attend any expedition you must be a current Full Member of MAA. Free members are not eligible to attend.
  • Event leaders are board-approved volunteers with appropriate experience and skills, but not certified guides.
  • The per person expedition fee represents each participants portion of the real costs of offering this event to the membership. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this expedition, only to cover costs. Fees that are associated with this event are those that individuals would have incurred had they planned this event themselves, or are legitimate group costs such as permits, lodging and pre-arranged transportation.
  • Non-commercial wilderness, camping and /or backcountry permits will be acquired within the posted group size limits for this area.
  • All MAA events practice Leave No Trace principles to be good stewards of wild places.
  • Participant safety is our top priority. The itinerary described is the plan; however, circumstances beyond the leader's control may necessitate changes.
  • The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.
  • MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.

Recommended Guide Services

We have worked with and recommend the following certified guide services:

Sierra Mountain Guides -

Alpine Skills International -

American Alpine Institute -

For more information or questions about this expedition, please contact the listed event leaders, or, or (916) 692-0005.