Mt. Shasta Hotlum Bolum Ridge
SIG 2MTN 1What is this?


MT SHASTA HOTLUM BOLUM RIDGE: We will be climbing one of the more remote, alpine routes on the northern side of Mt. Shasta. Loaner gear is available to paid members. Maximum: 8. Recommended: MTN 1 and SIG 2 or equivalent experience.

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  • HOW TO JOIN THE INTEREST LIST: Please read all the content of this posting, then if you are interested in attending, please sign in and join the interest list on this page, orange box top right. See section below titled "How to Join the Interest List"
  • COST: Free. Travel costs to North Gate trailhead and individual summit permit costs. In 2017, the permit was $25 and valid for 3 days
  • WHEN: Climb: July 20th, 2018 - July 22nd, 2018
  • WHERE: : Shasta Trinity National Forest and Wilderness area. North Gate Trailhead. 
  • ROUTE: Hotlum Bolum ridge, AI1-2. Starting elevation: ~7500 feet, Highest elevation: 14,162 feet, Miles: 10 round trip
  • EVENT LEADERS: David Krenik 714-914-8726
  • CLIMBING SKILLS REQUIREMENTS: In order to be best prepared to climb safely and effectively, participants should be able to ?        
  • SIG 1 and MTN 2

   ?      Comfortably walk on moderate snow slopes

   ?      Glissading and ice axe self arrest technique

   ?      Fitness to climb for 10-12 hours on summit day

   ?      Experience at altitude

   ?      Wilderness camping and sleeping at higher altitudes

          Overview all MAA Training Courses here.

  • PERSONAL GEAR: Members are encouraged to use your own equipment. If you're missing something, loaner gear may be available. Please let the event leader know if you need something. Only full members receive a continuous significant discount on everything at Bobcat's Outdoor Adventure Sports. Brands include ArcTeryx, Black Diamond, Petzl, Mountain Hardwear, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Outdoor Research, MSR, Beal, Garmin and more.
  • FITNESS AND DIFFICULTY LEVEL: Overall,      •         Beginner level climbers with moderate fitness level
  • GETTING THERE: North on I-5 and to the town of Weed. Take the exit for Highway 97 to Klamath Falls. Follow the signs through town and drive 15 miles north on 97 to Military Pass Road (Road 43N19). Turn right and drive four and a half miles to the junction of Andesite Logging Road and stay right. From this point to the trailhead, the route is marked with roadside direction signs. It is approximately four more miles to the trailhead. Expect 8.5 miles of rough dirt road to the trailhead. Four-wheel drive is usually not necessary, though a mid to high clearance vehicle is recommended.
  • EMERGENCIES:      •        Mercy Medical Center Mount Shasta – 914 Pine St, Mt Shasta, CA 96067 – 530.926.6111





Day 1: Thursday, July 19th -Drive to North Gate Trailhead and camp at trailhead: elevation 7,000 feet. We will attempt to carpool from LA, Sacramento and a Bay Area point.


Day 2: Friday, July 20th - Pack and distribute group gear. Hike through red-fir forest on a well used trail to Marine camp (~10,000 feet) or below Marine camp to set up base camp. At around 9,000 feet, the forest dissipates to alpine terrain and the glaciers and the route will be visible.


Day 3: Saturday, July 21st - Summit attempt. We will awake by 2am and leave no later than 3am. First, we will leave base camp and ascend west of the Hotlum Glacier onto our first snow ramp, leading us to the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge.  Depending on the snow conditions, we will skirt a crevasse in this area. Following the ridge proper, or moving up through the snow to “the step” at 13,000 feet. We will then climb up through more moderate angle snow as we pass some rock towers known as the “rabbit ears” and “the shark tooth” to the summit. We will follow the same route down to base camp. The total trip will be 4000 + feet and 10-12 hours.


Day 4: Sunday, July 22nd - descend to trailhead and drive home





MAA official climbing events are free of charge and open to all who have either a paid or free membership at To obtain any membership, you must also be a member of the MAA International Meetup group.

After a conservative self-assessment, if you believe you will contribute to the safety and success of this event and would like to be considered, please sign in, then join the interest list on this posting, orange box, top right. For maximum member benefits we invite you to become a Full Member.

HOW SELECTIONS WORK: A few weeks prior to the event, MAA leaders will select team members from the interest list based on relevant experience, skill level, fitness, and teamwork, while keeping an eye toward achieving a balanced mix of individuals. Leaders only consider those who are on the official interest list here at Those that are selected from the official interest list will be notified via email from the MAA International Meetup website and RSVPed to the list there.

Out of courtesy, if you are unable to attend please change your RSVP on MAA International and remove your name from the interest list on the official MAA website at

You can check the status of your attendance on the event posting on MAA International Meetup website, and the available spots on the official posting on this website.

If you experience difficulties or have questions during the registration process, please send an email to




Only full members receive a continuous significant discount on everything at Bobcat's Outdoor Adventure Sports. Brands include ArcTeryx, Black Diamond, Petzl, Mountain Hardwear, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Outdoor Research, MSR, Beal, Garmin and more.


  • Wicking, breathable base layer, top and bottom
  • Insulating, weather-resistant mid layer, top and bottom
  • Wind and waterproof shell layer, top and bottom
  • Insulating fill or down belay jacket, w/hood
  • Socks
  • Gloves and/or mittens
  • Gaiters
  • Sunglasses
  • Warm hat and/or balaclava
  • Sun hat or covering


  • Tent or bivouac - may be group gear
  • Backpack - save space for group gear
  • Cookset - may be group gear
  • Stove and fuel - may be group gear
  • Sleeping bag with compression stuffsack
  • High energy food, snacks and drinks
  • Sleeping pad
  • Spoon, mug
  • Freeze-proof water bottles or container system
  • Strong headlamp with fresh batteries
  • Map and compass
  • Sunscreen
  • Small personal first aid kit
  • Optional items for consideration: altimeter, trekking poles, camera, small knife or multi-tool, bandana


  • Mountaineering boots or approach shoes
  • Rock shoes*
  • Harness*
  • Climbing helmet*
  • Sharp steel crampons, fit to your boots*
  • Ice axe / tools*
  • 3 locking and 2 non-locking carabiners*
  • Two tied or sewn runners, 24" to 48"*
  • 16” loop of 4-5mm cord as a prusik*
  • Cordellette or quad, 5mm - 7mm, 15' - 20'*
  • Auto locking belay device*
  • Ropes, protection, slings* (may be group gear)

*If you are without some of this important safety gear, it may be available for loan upon prior request, first-come, first serve (full members only).

For help in selecting the appropriate item, please refer to the MAA Detailed Clothing, Equipment and Gear List




  • In order to attend you must have a free or paid MAA membership so that you can place your name on the interest list.
  • Event leaders are board-approved volunteers, not certified guides.
  • This event is free of charge. MAA receives no direct financial gain for organizing and supporting this event. Donations are not solicited, nor is any exchange of money a requirement for participation.
  • Non-commercial wilderness, camping and /or backcountry permits will be acquired within the posted group size limits for this area.
  • Any fees that are associated with this event are those that individuals would have incurred had they planned this event themselves, or are legitimate group costs such as permits, lodging and pre-arranged transportation.
  • All MAA events practice Leave No Trace principles to be good stewards of wild places.
  • Participant safety is our top priority. The itinerary described is the plan; however, circumstances beyond the leader's control may necessitate changes.
  • The event begins and ends at the trailhead. MAA does not insure ridesharing or other travel arrangements and bears no responsibility for them. Carpooling, ride sharing, or anything similar is strictly a private arrangement among individuals.
  • MAA event leaders carry communication devices and a medical kit; The primary event leader has current wilderness first aid and CPR training as well as MAA policy training.



Recommended Guide Services

We have worked with and recommend the following certified guide services:

Sierra Mountain Guides -

Alpine Skills International -

American Alpine Institute -



For more information or questions about this climbing event, please contact the listed event leaders, or, or (916) 692-0005.